Malvan is a
picturesque town situated in the valleys of Sindhudurg district in Maharashtra,
India. And Malvani cuisine derives
its name from this town’s local food. Malvan has the majestic Sahyadri
Mountains looking down upon it on one side and the tempestuous Arabian Sea
lapping its shores on the other side. This is why seafood and chicken take
pride of place in any Malvani meal since
both are available in abundance in this region.
The interesting thing
about Malvani cuisine is that it’s
an amalgamation of several cooking styles. Some food writers trace its roots to
the early 16th century when fisher folk settled along the coastal belts of what
is now Maharashtra, Goa, and parts of
northern Karnataka.
Though the
Maharashtrian variant of Malvani cuisine
is heavily inclined towards meat, certain factions within it, like the
Konkanastha Brahmin preparations, are entirely vegetarian and comparatively
bland in nature.
CULINARY
CONFLUENCE
Unsurprisingly, in
its present avatar, the cuisine imbibes
the vinegary pungency of Goan food, the liberal use of freshly grated coconut
from the Karwar belt as well as the sweet-and-sour combination of the Saraswat
Goud community. There are subtle differences in Malvani food cooked along with the entire western and southern
belts of Maharashtra, Goa, and Karnataka.
For instance, kokum imparts tanginess in the Maharashtrian cuisine while the
southern towns prefer using tamarind for the same effect.
Condiments like Triphala, tamarind, kokum, red Konkan chilies, peppercorns, mace, cardamom, and coriander lend a fiery punch to
the masalas that are fundamental to the cooking style. However, it is the
technique of grinding these masalas with fresh coconut or coconut milk that gives
this cuisine that edge and oomph.
Despite this varied
lineage, Malvani fare has come into its own. What is ironic is that though
every taste of dishes like the Shimpli
Masala or crab masala might lead one to believe that the preparation is
complex, it is actually quite simple in nature. Proteins like fish and chicken
are often marinated in a simple marinade of salt, lime juice, garlic-garlic
paste, red chili paste and turmeric; later coated in a mixture of rice flour
and semolina before being deep or shallow fried.
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